Sunday, 28 August 2016

Pole Extenders

Some shelters need a pole longer than the full extension of a trekking pole.  I have not seen a trekking pole that can extend out past 145cm.

Fizan Compacts (158g each, 7001 alloy, 17/16/14mm telescopic) range from 58cm to 132cm.  They might be found on sale for $50 each or less. Helinox GL145 poles (204g each) at 145cm may be just long enough for a small 2 person pyramid.

You can opt to carry an adjustable sectioned tent pole (142-165cm) for a weight and pack space penalty.  These are OK for car camping and there is a role for pyramid shelters on car camps especially if rained-out.
This strong 4-section adjustable pole for a pyramid tent weighs 325g

You can cut you own extension tube if you need only a little extra length. Avoid any wiggle in the fit as this might result in damage to the pole tip when under pressure.  Make the extender long enough to take 2 tips at once so then it can also be used to join 2 poles tip to tip.  An end cap or base plate would also be useful.  Block the end with a plastic cap or rubber chair stopper.

Another approach is to use two pieces of cord and either a toggle or taut line hitch. The baskets can get in the way with this arrangement.
Cord connected to the pole tips and length set.  You can pass the cord through the basket holes.
You need to bind the two poles together as well.  The asymmetry in the system may result in damage in high wind.  I used some double-sided velcro from Clark Rubber to bind the poles together but pieces of cord will work.

Trekking pole extenders in close-up has 2 types of walking pole extender tubes. Blue 16mm female and magenta 14mm male.  You'll need to purchase online.  Delivery was quick. The postage from the UK was a bit steep but I was able to get a reduction via a discount code.
The 2 pole expander types.  16mm blue and 14mm magenta

The price of both types of extender is the same. Landed at about A$25 each.
14mm internal Aluminium tube fits snugly on to the pole tips.  16g

The most useful is the 32g magenta 14mm extender which has black expanders.

The magenta 14mm extender will replace the tip section of many poles (i.e. having expanders for an internal diameter 14mm middle section).  You then join another pole's middle section to the other end of the extender.

This can make a single tent pole up to a whopping 2m long, but it can be shorter by compacting the poles. The objective is often to get a single pole of around 150cm for a pyramid tent.

Try to overlap the joiner inside the poles as much as possible and also compact the smaller diameter sections back in.

With 2 sets of poles and 2 14mm extenders you could set up a pyramid tent for 2 with no central pole. Join the 2 long poles at the top handle to make an inverted V.  The individual poles may need to be about 190cm long for a 145cm high pyramid.

The 46g 16mm extender is designed to replace the handle section of very thin poles. It is just a tube.  Make sure the middle section expander is completely undone before trying to insert in to the extender tube. There is no reason you can't make your own extender tube as long as you can source the right internal diameter.

The extender needs to be big enough to replace the role of the handle section.  On my poles the 16mm extender can replace only the middle section, meaning the resultant conjunction of tip sections is only about 120cm long.  But this might work for really thin walking poles.  I need a larger diameter extender to fit the middle section of my Fizan poles.  Commonly found Aluminium tubing does not have internal sizes between 16mm and 20mm.

UK Pacer Poles may be able to supply a handle section to use as a joiner. Worth getting one if ordering those popular poles.

A piece of handle section from a broken pole would probably do the job as an extender.  You can sometimes find these in bushwalk gear clearance shop bargain bins.  Keep that in mind next time you come across a broken pole.
2 trekking poles make 1 long and 1 short pole using 1 of each type of extender

Copyright (C) 2016 Bushwalking Light

Monday, 4 July 2016

Mt Stirling Early Summer Trip

I'd been wanting to get out for an overnighter, and mentioned this in a phone call to G. He thought that was a good idea and decided to come along.  That was fine except he had not bush camped for many years and had no gear except runners and thermals. After he failed to convince me denims were OK I offered to supply some more suitable clothing.  Inevitably failure to discover or respond to poor choices by less experienced participants results in some sort of a trip failure.

I had a half completed pack and checklist, intending to go 2 nights out, and now I needed to get another set of gear ready.  Using my checklist as a basis I scrounged through my gear boxes and came up with spare kit.

By this time I had decided on a destination and trip plan. Keep it simple. There was a fine, dry and warm 17C forecast.
Available water on trip. Maybe tanks or small runoffs.
Wide trails with signposts and maps on them.
A few huts with nearby campsites to choose from. 
First rate views for the payoff.
Bit of a climb as a challenge.
Conclusion: Mt Stirling. Part of the Alpine Resort and a rare survivor from a developer challenge.

I have skied and winter camped Stirling on many occasions over 25+ years but apart from an aborted recce halfway up Bluff Spur in the '80s I had actually never walked its trails.  I might find water sources, a possible new camp site to try on the south summit area and also a pattern of usage of 4WD, trail bike, mountain bike and horse riding users.

I woke about 5:45am. G arrived on time. I discarded most of his mountain of food and tried 2 packs on him, opting for the ancient but full size harness 3kg 1989 model Mountain Designs Baltoro III pack. The foam shoulder padding had transformed into blocks of wood over the years in storage.  Things were drying out on the mountain.  I insisted take 3L of water because a long climb in warm sun under a cloudless sky was expected and water sources were doubtful. With all his extra food, I managed to keep his pack weight down to about 14kg. I carried the super efficient Trangia 27 stove kit with gas burner.

Practice slope
An ancient Robin Trower Live  tape moved us down the highway in a blaze of 70s nostalgia. We arrived at 11:30am at Telephone Box Junction (TBJ) car park. About 8 other vehicles were there.

It's basically all uphill for several hours.  After I changed shoes we headed off up perhaps the easiest direct trail I could find to the summit - Upper Baldy trail via the machinery shed to Stirling trail.  (Fork Creek via No 3 Road to King Saddle may be easier when skiing with pack. ) This trail is pleasantly graded and like most trails lower down offers dappled shade.  A young athletic pair - he carrying a small daypack and a small water bottle between them - overtook us soon on the trail headed for the summit.

We plodded on in the warming conditions.  A few minutes later the athletic pair caught us up again.  They had taken the first turnoff which looped back to the top of the practice slope at the start of the trail.  A mistake I had fallen victim to in a ski trip the previous year.

About 40 minutes in there was water at a couple of places beside the Upper Baldy trail. (Where a stream crosses it on the trail map.) Also nearby were a couple of small camp sites among the mountain ash trees for snow trips not too far from TBJ, fairly easy to access and off the main routes.

32 From this point the views improve.
We blitzed past the machinery shed and took a detour along upper Fork Creek track around to Stirling Trail.  Some steep sections of track were taped off for regeneration, presumably to keep horses out.

No clouds shaded our progress for the day so it was unrelenting sunshine, high UV and higher-up, pestilent flies, as we ascended.

About an hour and a half in, there was a small clear stream flowing beside the track below Cricket Pitch on Stirling Trail above signpost/junction 27 / 32 of Stirling Trail and Fork Creek Trail.

Grass scarring caused from winter tents at Cricket pitch
With a few stops to adjust pack and take drinks we arrived at the so-called Cricket Pitch area which is just in the snow gum zone after 2 hours walk or ski. The tap handle on the tank at Cricket Pitch was missing from the spigot so don't count on getting water here. There are toilets there.

I have snow camped the Cricket Pitch years ago, before any infrastructure existed, in a 3 night basecamp, but now a private operator runs a few tents there. A cold spot in winter.

I urged G on to the pleasantly situated and fairly recent King Spur Hut not much further along the track. There is a fairly gentle climb between the Cricket Pitch and King Spur Hut. We took lunch inside away from the swarms of flies, then had a nap on the warm grass outside for an hour. There are 2 water tanks and a toilet.  There are views to the Crosscut Saw.

King Spur hut
Horse droppings were seen on the trail up to here. 

The tap on the north tank was dripping.  I decided it was best to continue using this tank so as to keep the water in the non-dripping tank.

It is about an hour's ski from here to the summit, or 35 minutes to GGS Hut depending on your load and how much ice is on the groomed trail.

View of summit from upper Stirling trail
Refreshed and enthused by the prospect of the imminent summit we continued on up hill. The trail gets steeper from here but it is a really nice section with great views.

South Summit ridge
We had a look in GGS Hut then moved around to the South Summit area to explore possible dry camp sites. GGS hut has a water tank, an annex (with resident hut rat) for gear storage and a wood shed at the back. There is a dual toilet as well.

The iconic South Summit snowgum. Ants are underfoot so no go for camping for anywhere near here.

Heavy erosion and significant 4WD damage affects the Howqua track near the summit.  Some sloping small dry camp sites at the Howqua track overlook the Crosscut Saw but are subject to nearby dusty convoys.  There is no shade for a pitched tent.

There were a few good spots near the South Summit area on snow grass but at each one we found that ants swarmed in soon after we sat down.  I hadn't reckoned on how extensive the ants were at South Summit.  I also had this problem on a high site near Mt Townsend, the common features being altitude, winter snow cover, prominence, location has full sun and a thick grassy surface seemingly ideal for camping.  So be warned. Maybe too high for echidnas there. Abandoning this area we summited briefly then moved down to Bluff Spur Hut which was a scene of a group of shrieking adolescent girls. Now finding all our proposed campsites unsuitable for a quiet evening conducive of meditation and rest we moved on quickly.

The summit prize

View from West Summit trail towards the East.
Moving quickly around the undulating West Summit Trail, which is more sheltered than the summit track and was built to provide access between the GGS and Bluff Spur Hut, we revisited GGS and explored the nearby camp area just to the east.

Near the sunken 4WD track. Not as flat as it looks here.
Another small stream was seen beside the track on West Summit Trail above signpost/junction 37 of Stirling Trail with GGS side track.

I took a much needed rest stop to gather thoughts, but was disturbed by 2 dusty 4WD convoys moving along the deeply rutted Howqua Track just adjacent to this spot. The road is sunken 2 or 3 feet here, and even deeper higher up.  Not appealing to consider midnight visitors "dropping in", so we decided to move on.

The upshot was pretty much 2 failed prospective camp sites and an unexpected third site not reaching desired standards.
View of Cross-cut Saw in twilight

Feeling pretty whacked and thwarted we stumbled back down hill to a vacant King Spur Hut and pitched tents without ceremony. It had been a hot day with not much breeze. It didn't help realising we could have left our packs at the hut to circumnavigate the summit and return.  Anyway water was boiled in the gas Trangia and a brew made. The Trangia 27 with gas burner proved super-efficient again and very little gas fuel was used for the meal. This is one awesome stove and cook set up that seems to be much under-rated by bushwalkers. The gas burner may no longer be available here.
Preparing dinner on the awesome gas Trangia 27

 The sun was setting by the time we had eaten and cleaned up.  We'd used up all our chitchat so given our early start we had an early night and slept well. I woke up with the sunrise about 6am.

Evening light
I went for a site with a view, shorter grass and morning light.  The One Planet Goondie 1 15D fly was dry inside.  The fly sits higher off ground.   It also has a top vent over the vestibule.  Might have been a better site than the Moondance or just better venting design.

Don't pitch on long grass to minimise condensation.
The Mont Moondance is a well made 3 seasons tent.  I seam sealed it even though the seams are taped.  G decided to camp in shade on long damp grass resulting in condensation. The latest version of the Moondance has a much needed roof vent.

This was a great site with a nice view of the Crosscut.

Filtering out macro particulates

After a couple of nasty bush-related gastro-intestinal episodes, I am particular about water hygiene and cleaning hands in the bush. Nobody I know bothers to filter water. It doesn't take much extra effort with a bit of practice and the cut down 1.25l PET bottle is a good size for the UV pen to use.  After a pre-filter I then either boil or UV the water. I now have a Sawyer mini filter for those times when the water is muddy or cloudy. No batteries are required but it needs frequent reverse flushing. I work in Danger Red mode when it comes to water security. Maintain consistent washing of hands and the use of hand wash.  Make sure your bush toilets are properly buried with a rock topping.

Morning sun

Note: Always take a tent on your overnight trips and do not "occupy" huts. Do not rely on huts being available as free accommodation.  Huts are communal areas, used for cooking away from freezing conditions or insects or for sorting out gear or sick party members, treating injuries or drying off to avoid hypothermia.  They are not private mountain retreats, even if you can only afford bailing twine as your belt.

Ready to go early for cool walking without annoying insects.

The WBA is a trim pack

Down Stirling trail

As we moved down the trail to King Saddle Shelter we heard numerous gun shots getting fired in pairs.  Parked at the bottom were 3 4WDs, a brindle pit-bull dog who gave me the hairy eyeball and a few camper persons, two walking back from a short track with a rifle. Note: Dogs and guns are specifically not allowed in the resort.  Plenty of signs indicate this. There is no excuse. Authorities are aware of the problem.

We walked on to Razorback Hut where a trail riding group was set to depart for No. 3 road.  We took the undulating Hut Trail back to TBJ.

Baldy Creek

Telephone Box Junction December 2013

The completed walk and camp took just under 24 hours.  A few days after our visit the area was subjected to heavy snowfalls and a few inches of rain.


In the short period of time we were there we had close first hand experience of 4WD convoys, shooters with dogs who shouldn't be there, horse riding groups and large noisy school age groups. This is a busy mountain and seems a lot less like wilderness than when I was visiting in winter in the early nineties when trails were ungroomed and the snow was fluffy and dry.  A busy user profile.  

A much nicer experience skiing and camping in the short winter season, although the winter car parking fees Friday and Saturday nights are high. Go off-peak for your longer camps. For your money you do get quite a few winter services though: at TBJ there is a ski patrol room where you can get maps, friendly advice and Trip Intentions Forms can be lodged. Change rooms and toilets are around the back of TBJ. Inside there is warm shelter, comprehensive gear hire and a cafe. I don't much like the new enclosed warming area. There is some free group transport from TBJ to higher places when the snowline is higher on the mountain.  On the mountain there are a couple of open roofed day shelters with toilets, (King Saddle has  a fireplace, machinery shed). Trails are groomed, and cleared of fallen timber and there are 4 or 5 huts with stoves, cut firewood, water tanks and nearby toilets. Note that tents are required. The dirt entry road is cleared of snow, with wheel chain advisory signs and stopping places provided, fallen trees are cleared and there is a ski patrol with contactable phone number.

Copyright (C) 2018 Bushwalking Light

Sunday, 3 July 2016

Review: Trangia UL HA 27-7 Cookset with Gas Burner

The Trangia 27 Series Stormcooker is a smaller version of the 25 Series. The Trangia 27 system is suitable to cook for 1 or 2 at a time. In Scandinavia it is called the "StormCooker" for its reputation to keep working in poor weather conditions.

Many lightweight stove systems are unstable, wind-prone and reduced to boiling water only, even adjusting fuel flow for simmering may be difficult.  The Trangia system is stable, wind-protected and well known for it's cuisine versatility, enabling bacon/eggs, naan bread, risotto, pasta, pancakes and pizza. 

What You Get
The out-of-the-box Trangia 27-7 UL HA (the ultra light, hard anodised version) cookset weighs 720g with the methylated spirit burner.  The kit includes stove base, integrated windshield, 2 nesting 1 litre pots, frypan/lid, pot gripper and strap along with the methylated spirits burner with its lid and simmer ring. The two 1 litre pots and the pan/lid are anodised. The 2 nested pots look identical in size and nest very closely. There is room inside the packed windshield to fit a third pot if Trangia ever manufactured a slightly larger version. No kettle is supplied, but Trangia have one you can fit inside the nested pots (and in a miracle of design also fit the metho or gas burner inside).

Another option Trangia offers is a Multi-fuel Burner.  This has a 0.32mm jet for canister gas and Shellite/kerosene use.  The Primus Omnifuel has a similar looking fuel system but there may be differences in connectors.

Trangia 27 nested pots with a small firesteel. A metho or gas burner or 220g gas canister can also fit inside.
 This review mainly looks at the Trangia Gas Burner with this cookset. I purchased this 180g Gas Burner from a local shop but I understand it is now unavailable as there is an issue with Australian standards compliance. This compliance is expensive to obtain and the market here for these devices is small.  I understand the Trangia gas burner complies with the prEN 521 (EU and Nordic) and CAN-11.2-M79 (Canada/US) standards.  The burner is robust with pre-heater tube and has good simmer control.

Trangia Gas Burner product sheet snippet

Gas consumption indicates about 88 minutes of heating from a 220g canister. That's about 17 minutes per day for a 5 day trip.  Over 5 days my usage is around 220g but I seem to manage about 3 1/2 1L boil ups per day by using a low gas flow rate to do my heating.

Two Trangia 27 Systems

System 1  I added an 18cm 73g Multi-disc (lid/strainer/cutting board), 10g of 3mm CCF pot and pan cosies and a MYOG foil pot lid for a cook system weight of 803g. A full 500ml (400g methylated spirits fuel, gross 516g) Trangia fuel bottle brings the total to 1,319g.  You can also store 70g of methylated spirits fuel in the stove which is enough to boil 2L with some left over. Add an ignition source. You can pack everything into the nested Trangia 27 system except the fuel bottle.
Trangia 27 secured for packing.

Under backyard testing, the Trangia 27 cookset plus spirit burner used 18g of methylated spirits and took 11 minutes to boil 1 litre of water.  That comes to about 22 boils for the 500ml Trangia fuel bottle.  Getting 20 boil-ups would be a good result and with 2 boil-ups per day, it may last up to 9 or 10 days.
Trangia 27 multidisc lid/strainer/cutting board. Great for cutting cheese and stras.
I reckon the multi-disc is worth getting as a cutting board, cheese board and pot lid. I don't use the strainer as I use the minimum water method.

System 2  For the Trangia 27 cookset plus gas burner subtract the 113g methylated spirits burner and 516g full fuel bottle and replace these with the Trangia Gas burner at 183g and a 363g gas canister. That comes to a slightly lighter 1,246g cook system with 2 pots, fry pan and enough fuel for 5 days at 2 to 3 1L boils per day (see stove test below).
The Trangia Gas burner is strong, tough and very well made. A great cooking engine.
You can store everything inside the nested Trangia 27 cookset except either the gas burner or a 363g (220g net) gas canister.  One of these items will need to be stowed separately.

The gas burner has a 37mm jet.

The Trangia Gas burner installed on Trangia 27 base.
The burner snap-mounts in to the base. It is hard to see in the photo, but I rounded over pointy right-angle corners on the burner spring mount with a file.

The Trangia 27 cookset plus Gas Burner combo forms a remote canister stove system.  Since the burner has a pre-heater tube (which can get red hot), the canister may be deployed upside down which makes for better performance in sub-zero conditions. This is a must-have feature for snow and alpine adventures.

A Comparison with 2 Primus Omnifuel Systems

The Primus Omnifuel is a very good liquid fuel stove which I have used on snow camps with great success.

The Trangia 27 plus gas burner at 1,246g  is nearly 180g lighter than a Primus Omnifuel in Shellite mode with a 2 Ti wide-pot system like the Snowpeak Multi-Compact set. This Shellite system tested at 15 minutes for a 1L boil using 15g of Shellite fuel and weighs 1,424g with a 514g full (400g fuel) Shellite fuel bottle for about 25 boil ups.  The fuel efficiency difference is probably due to the better windshield on the Trangia.

The Trangia 27 plus gas burner is 100g heaver than the Primus Omnifuel in gas mode with the same 2 Snowpeak Multi-Compact Ti pots. This system tested at 11 minutes for a 1L boil using 18g of gas and weighs 1145g with a full 220g net gas canister for about 12 boil ups.  So the Trangia 27 gives better fuel efficiency assisted by a more effective windshield for that extra weight.

Stove Boil Test Result

So how long and how much fuel does it take to boil water on the Trangia? Trangia says the Gas Burner is high efficiency. When I tested the Trangia 27-7 gas burner using cold water from the tap and at about 18C ambient temperature using isobutane gas and using an initial low flow gas rate, aiming for a "minimum gas usage".  I used the frypan as a lid and resisted the temptation to lift and inspect, paying very close attention to the heating process, making occasional incremental adjustments as the heating progressed so that by the time the water boils I increased the initial gas flow rate twice going from about 20% to 50% rate. The reason I increase the gas rate as it gets closer to boiling temperature is because the pot and surrounding kit is losing heat faster to the ambient environment. This is more attention than when in the field since I have multiple other tasks that require attention. Using more gas early just wastes heat moving up the sides of the pot and away so I never use full throttle on any gas stove. I was astonished to find it did a 5 minute boil of 1L and used just 8g of gas in the process. That is fast and efficient.  At single figure significance, that makes a usage rate of  96g/h, well under the maximum rating of 150g/h for the stove and would give you about 2hrs 20 minutes burn time for a 220g net canister.  I've done a few stove tests now and that beats anything else I have done.  A second test of the Trangia 27 gas stove on the next evening took 7 minutes and used 11g of gas which is closer to field rates. Now in the field you may have ambient temperatures closer to 0 in the morning and also colder water. This will affect the time to boil and amount of gas used.

This stove combination is a winner for gas fuel efficiency.  If that efficiency is sustained you can do 28 1L boils per 220g canister. In the field with temps about 0-15C I get about three 1L boils per day over five days on one 220g gas canister.  It makes hot water for breakfast, tea, soups and noodles in this regime. Just dehydrated meals and I use the longer pot-cosy method with 2 small heatups, one at beginning and one at end.  A colder morning may use extra gas and a couple of times on a trip I get distracted with chores only to discover the boil has been achieved quicker than expected, so I take a spare 100g canister on 5 day trips.  It has been needed about 1/2 the time.  For 3 day winter snow trips I use just over 1/2 a canister but these have been supplemented with hut wood stoves for melting snow and some extra evening tea brews. 

I can usually get 10 and a bit boils from a Kovea Supalite minimalist upright gas stove and canister with a custom windshield. I use a circular aluminium reflector to stop the canister from overheating and keep a close watch on overheating by touching the canister from time to time. Too hot to touch is too hot! At 2 and a bit boil-ups a day that does for 5 days. 

One of the few negative features with the Trangia stove is you cannot see the flame while the pot is in place. So either lift the pot or go by sound when adjusting the flame. Suggestion to Trangia: The +/- markings on the black gas control nob could be painted white and I wonder if future gas regulators might possibly have a small dial gauge.This could be a simple fixed marked ring.

On a field trip at 1,700m this system prepared dinner and breakfast for two. A bit less than 2L was boiled at dinner plus a few minutes of simmering. About 1 1/2 litres of water was boiled at breakfast. I used a low heat setting and a total of 38g of gas was used.  This works out at a very low 11g of gas per 1L boil or 20 1L boil ups from a canister. That is pretty awesome.

So the evidence is that Trangia's claim of high efficiency is no marketing hype but fact.

Do Aussie bushwalkers need an inverted canister gas stove? In the snow, yes, but you may get by if you use huts or procedures to keep the canister warm. However it also gets sub-zero overnight in alpine areas in summer and is needed then!

Low Temperature Function

The gas burner has a pre-heater loop and can be used in "inverted canister mode" for below 0C conditions which occurs at altitude (above 1000m) throughout winter in mainland Australia and less frequently in summer.  Below 0C the Isobutane component won't evaporate, it has no vapour pressure, so only the propane component is gasified (down to -40C) pressurising the canister, exiting and is burnt off.  Unfortunately, this constituent of the gas mix is only about 20-30% of the gas in the canister and once this is burnt the residual liquid isobutane will just sit there with no vapour pressure to expel it from the canister.  So it is necessary in below 0C conditions to invert the canister before this happens.  The vapour pressure formed by the propane gasifying then pushes out the mixed liquified gases, heating it via the pre-heater loop to expand and gasify when it passes through the jet and then igniting. In this way, the propane proportion of the contents remains constant and enables the complete exhaustion of the canister by providing pressure at sub-zero temperatures above -40C.

Start the stove with the canister upright, then dial down the flow before inverting the canister. Some gas continues to flow from the pipe after the gas is turned off, so to avoid waste turn off just before your water boils/snow melts/food is heated.

I have operated an upright gas stove using isobutane at -2C to 0C on a couple of occasions and found it was reluctant and sluggish, using about twice as much gas over a much longer time to achieve a boil.
Trangia 27 windshield and gas canister attached.
Ready to be boiled for testing.

How cold does it get in Australia?

In mainland Australia it is unusual to get temperature reports below -10C.  Major caveats apply here and unusual does not mean never. The national lowest temperature record  was -23C in 1994 at Charlotte's Pass, Kosciuszko National Park (KNP).  A temperature of -19.6C was recorded there in 2010 and in August 2016 -10.4C was reached at Thredbo.  This was the only reported sub -10C minimum reading for all of Australia over that year. However note there are many very cold camping locations that are not reported, such as frost hollows under clear skies, wind chill effects etc.

The record low in Tasmania is -13C in 1983.  The record low in Victoria (Falls Creek) is -11.7C in 1970.  It was also -10.5C again at Falls Creek back in 1974.  The Queensland record low is -10.6C in 1965.  All the sub -10C record lows are older than 20 years.  There are no records of sub -10C temperatures in WA, SA or NT although desert nights can be very frosty and sub-zero.  While the record minimums gives us an idea of low end temperature patterns, it does not mean minimums have not reached below -10C in recent times.

So what about the monthly minimums for the last few years? For 2015 I found 9 reports of sub -10C minimums (Jun-Aug), mostly in KNP and a couple in Tasmania.  2014 had 10 reported sub -10C minimums (Jul-Aug), again mostly KNP.  2013 had 6 reports. Typically these temperatures were just below -10C to -13C. Some readings were for the same day from nearby stations. We can say it is not unusual that in any year that the KNP region will report a sub -10C minimum temperature on at least 1 occasion, but it is also fair to say that for any random day of the year that somewhere in Australia reports a sub -10C minimum is unusual.  There were no Victorian sub -10C readings (which we may expect from Hotham or Falls Creek) for any of the years 2013 - 2016.

It is also worth noting sub-zero temperatures (around -4C) in KNP in December is not unusual, so pre-heater gas stoves are not just for snow camping in winter.

Using a striker and flint to light the burner inside the windshield can result in a small whoomp-style explosive ignition, so avoid placing hands inside to ignite. I suggest removing the windshield to light or else use long matches - which can be found with BBQ supplies in shops. A long piezo igniter might work but I don't trust their reliability to work in all conditions.

The Trangia frypan should be used as a lid. There is high heat efficiency here.

The Trangia 27 with Gas Burner delivers very good efficiency as well as outstanding cooking versatility. Weight difference is also not significant with other remote canister stove systems which usually have ad-hoc windshields that require constant attention. Upright canister stove systems may be lighter but are even more unstable and frequently tip over with boiling contents and should never be used without stabilising canister legs or mounted and fixed to a piece of board.  The Trangia 27 could be set up within reach just outside your tent vestibule in a persistent rainstorm and be accessible, stable, functioning and safer than if it was in the vestibule.

The Trangia 27 with Gas Burner is an excellent solo combo kit for snow camps and high wind-exposed camping and hard to see what could beat it for a 2-person stove system in or out of snow.  The Trangia Gas Burner is unavailable in Australia so you will need to purchase it from an overseas supplier. In my view this is worth the extra effort as it is such a good performer. It could well end up cheaper than purchasing from a putative local supplier since we seem to have an "Australia tax" on overseas items (in addition to, and not to be confused with, the good old GST)

It is a bit more bulky and heavier than single pot upright canister stove solutions but is more versatile, much more stable and safer, especially for inexperienced bushwalkers,  and has become my go to cook kit.  

The Trangia 27 with gas burner gets the Bushwalkinglight 5 stars ***** award for product excellence.

I bought the Trangia burner and pots with my own funds and I have no relationship with Trangia.

Copyright (C) 2018 Bushwalking Light 

Saturday, 2 July 2016

Survey - Tent Pegs

Tent pegs (or stakes) are an often neglected item of equipment. 

Every peg type will bend when used in rocky ground with enough force. Stepping on pegs to push them in may bend the peg or damage your shoe. Use a hammer stone with caution. If you feel resistance back off and relocate the peg.  If the ground is rocky then place the peg under a rock or tie the guy to a large rock instead.  Avoid abrasion of the guy on the rock.

You can use a free peg to lever out another from the ground. Having an attached loop of cord helps for non-hook types. Insert a free peg as a handle and lift.

Alloy hook pegs work well at sheltered grassy sites with firm subsoil.  While these bend easily, they are easy to hammer back straight and they are cheap.  It is easy to lose pegs and I find them all the time at popular sites.
Electrical thermal shrink wrap makes peg a bit easier to find
The cheap steel hook pegs can be found at hardware stores and camping shops and are heavy for pack carrying but are good for car camps. Since they come with a flat cut end it will help to put a dull point on them.

Some pegs can also be used as anchors in snow or sand. Sticks can be buried as "deadmen" anchors in snow camps. If it ices up overnight they are hard to remove even from a shallow lie!

Sheltered camping sites should be sought when wind is present. Tents act like sails. Strong blustery winds can work pegs out of the ground.  Difficulties arise when the ground is hard or grass is so thick (such as snow grass) the peg hardly reaches the subsoil. Some improvisation with using sticks, rocks or bags of sand may be needed.

Long 23cm Y stakes are my preference for critical functions like pyramid tent corners, tarps, trekking pole tie-outs and non-freestanding tents.

Coghlan's 6061 alloy 23cm Y peg (19g)  are a little longer than MSR GroundHog 7075 alloy stakes (17g).  There's also fairly cheap Whites Group Gold 23cm alloy Y pegs (17g).

6061 alloy is inexpensive, heat treatable and when annealed has good workability. Magnesium and Silicon are the major alloy elements. 7075 alloy is one of the highest strength aluminum alloys available. Zinc is the major alloy element.

Easton stakes (23cm and 12g) are popular. These are used on tarps and pyramids.  Lighter and longer than alloy hooks.   I have seen a few blogs mention this style can lose the head caps. A youtube demo shows a few scratches can be made in the Aluminium at the top with a hack saw and epoxy used to reattach the head. Superglue might also work too.

The svelte 16cm Exped V DAC is elegant European design but just a bit short.  I have seen similar product marketed as J-stakes.  I would like a 22cm version for a non-self-supporting tent, tarp or pyramid.  Similar N-rit V pegs have a support bead running along the valleys.

14cm is too short for a main tarp or pyramid peg but OK for mid points. I would only use these on sheltered car camps.  Due to their stubbiness it would require immense force to bend these.

The 25cm, 25g MSR Blizzard is a very light snow/sand peg.  These are pricey at about A$9.  If travelling to the US it may be worth bringing a few back.  They are about half the weight of the longer Hampton Works snow pegs (see below).  They can double as a trowel and as a shoe horn so I always have one on every trip.

Here is a product with "HW Made in England" stamped on it. Hampton Works in Birmingham, founded 1909.  I have used these 31cm long pegs for snow camps for over 25 years. Longer versions are available. It is claimed the holes assist in the holding power of the peg. My old versions weigh 45g.  The new ones must have a thicker gauge as they are 58g.  Reasonably priced at a bit over $3 each.

20 minutes punching, drilling and filing burrs and you have saved 5 or 6g, or about 10% of the base weight, in a snow peg.

You probably won't need all their 31cm length in windless conditions.  The cord makes the pegs a bit easier to see in snow and helps in pulling or working out. Total weight is now 310+g for 6. 

The shorter 23cm Hampton Works snow pegs come to 38g each after extra holes drilled and a pull cord added. 228g for 6. 

Above: 16cm HW alloy V Peg 16g with a 23cm smaller sized snow peg

The alloy V pegs look like they have more holding power than the hook types. 

Titanium pegs are available with a significant price premium. Aluminium is a lighter metal than Titanium, but lighter gauge Titanium can be used for greater strength.

For a tarp I might use 4 long Y pegs and 2 alloy hook pegs to make up at least a set of 6. For a pyramid tent 4 long Y pegs for the corners and 4 hook pegs for the guys and doors.  If you are expecting windy conditions take enough long pegs and longer guys.

 3 or 4 eye hooks may come in handy for pitching on platforms.

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